The day began in Meiringen with a small but strong coffee from the vending machine – 2 out of 5 cups, caffeinated after all. But the route south was clear: the plan was to continue via Andermatt towards Bellinzona.

The ride up was fresh, but once we reached the top, the sun not only warmed our faces, but also our hearts. In Andermatt, we had a real moment of pleasure: latte macchiato, salami mutschli and a chocolate croissant, served with plenty of sunshine and a view. The coffee got full marks – 5 out of 5 cups – even if it could have been a little more. A chocolate wafer treat for dessert. Switzerland is not just about mountains.

Strengthened, we continued – at least briefly. Because it ended at Nätschen. The road was still closed, but a friendly local resident told me: “The pass doesn’t open until Friday.” So the only way left was through the Gotthard tunnel – and it was a real treat: sauna feeling on two wheels.

There’s a reason why the Gotthard tunnel is considered a mobile sauna by motorcyclists. While car drivers hardly notice the heat thanks to the air conditioning, we sit on our bikes fully clothed in the hot wind. The draught hardly helps – if the ambient air is already over 30 degrees, even the airstream no longer provides any real cooling. The air is dry, heavy and warm like a hairdryer. And if you think it’s because of the traffic: even in winter it doesn’t get colder than 27 degrees, because there are up to 1,500 meters of warm rock above the tunnel. Sounds crazy? It is. But somehow also legendary.

Today had it all anyway: from 5 to 30 degrees – you can’t have more climate zones in a day. Nine hours on the saddle, constantly changing temperatures, concentrated riding in tight bends or tunnels – it’s physically exhausting. I can really feel it tonight. Adventurous? Yes. But also exhausting.

After 17 kilometers of tube, it was clear: get out, drink, check the map.

But the navigation had a mind of its own today. Google Maps was overwhelmed, the motorcycle navigation system was offline – and I accidentally ended up at a truck checkpoint. The police took it in good humor and kindly guided me out again. Navigation without the internet? Adventure with a bonus level.

And then: suddenly a completely different attitude to life. After the tunnel, the cool Alpine world became Ticino – with a Mediterranean touch, suddenly everything was a little more colorful, softer, warmer. The houses looked Italian, the language changed to Buongiorno instead of Grüezi, the roads meandered gently through green valleys – and there were flowers everywhere. An almost southern flair – and in the middle of Switzerland.

Things got serious in the region around Ponto Valentino. The road was extremely narrow and winding, often just wide enough for one vehicle. I mostly drove in first gear, as oncoming traffic could suddenly appear around every bend. The road wound through the slopes, abandoned-looking houses appeared at the edge, Torre and Dangio lay deep down in the valley. One hiker, a few cars – otherwise I was on my own. An intense section – slow, demanding, but fascinating.

The closer I got to the Lukmanier Pass, the wider the road became – but the traffic remained light and the landscape impressive. And then: a marmot! In the middle of nowhere, it jumped across the road, made brief eye contact and then disappeared into the slope again. A brief, silent moment that almost said more than any panoramic view.

The Lukmanier Pass itself was the scenic finale of the day: wide bends, dramatic scenery, hardly any traffic. The temperature dropped to around 5 degrees, a shower passed through the mountains in the distance – I myself stayed dry. The sun fought its way through the clouds from time to time – a great end to a day that went completely differently than planned.

In the evening I reached Thusis, not Bellinzona as I had originally thought. German is spoken here again – and after Italian-speaking Switzerland, it almost feels like home again.

My accommodation? A confectionery, restaurant and B&B all in one. What could be better than a real Swiss confectionery after a day like this? I was greeted with a handmade praline – and to be honest, that immediately lifts the mood to 100. Plus a room that has enough space for my bags. The WLAN? Great. The pizza at “La Mama”? Just right. Indulgence in every form.

Conclusion: tunnel heat, navigation disasters, a marmot and lots of moments to remember. The old lady ran, the day was full of twists and turns, but that’s exactly why it was so special. And tomorrow? Let’s see what goes wrong next – or just fits perfectly.