📍 Wolfsgruben
🗓️ 2025-04-24
🌡️ 21 °C
🏍️ 330 km driven
The morning began icy – in the truest sense of the word. Still in Switzerland, near Tinzen, the thermometer showed 4 °C. Fog hung low in the mountains and fine hoar frost covered the trees – a surreal scene, somewhere between a winter fairy tale and motorcycle reality. But it got even colder: Marmorera, 2 degrees, snowfall. The roads were speckled with white, visibility limited – not a typical spring day.
Then the frosty climax at the Julier Pass: -2 degrees, snow, fog. A scene straight out of a high mountain drama. Shortly afterwards, salvation: a hot coffee in La Punt – not a miracle of taste, but worth its weight in gold at 4°C. Warm up, take a deep breath, carry on.
I continued along winding roads – and the day was not only longer, but also more varied. I crossed four mountain passes today:
- Julier Pass – frosty and impressive
- Reschenpass – including schnitzel and church tower in the lake
- Gampen Pass – with a view and fast bends
- Mendel Pass – South Tyrolean spring in its purest form
Three countries in one day – Switzerland, Austria, Italy. Sounds like a postcard idyll, but it was more of a rollercoaster of altitude and temperature jumps. In the morning at -2 °C on the Julier Pass, my thermal underwear was sorely lacking; a few hours later in South Tyrol, the sun was beating down on my textile suit at over 20 degrees. It became a mobile sauna – so I had to take off my winter scarf, put on a light scarf and persevere.
The landscape changed, vines lined the road and there was a sweet, slightly bitter scent in the air – presumably from the first budding of the vines or elderflowers blooming on the slopes. This was accompanied by bright yellow broom bushes and countless small flowers along the roadside. A feast for the senses – and a stark contrast to the snowflakes of the morning.
Then the surprise at the top of the pass: lots of guesthouses, hotels – but not a soul to be seen. No cars, no voices, no open doors. Everything seemed as if winter had not yet let go – a ghost town on spring break. Somehow strange, but fascinating.
In the evening, I finally reached my destination for today: the Hotel Drei Birken in Wolfsgruben, Ritten, South Tyrol. And it’s not just a hotel – it’s a real feel-good place. Family-run, with great attention to detail. I ordered just one small thing: the soup of the day. A vegetable soup – simple, but sensationally good. And then came the secret star of the day: a latte macchiato with chocolate crunchy balls. Really? 6 out of 5 cups. No joke. The best of the tour.
Finally, a nice moment: a local couple approached me at dinner. They had seen my license plate – and were curious to know where I was from and where I was going. We quickly struck up a conversation, talking about motorcycling and traveling alone. Another moment that shows that being on the road connects people.
Conclusion: three countries, four passes, one schnitzel too many. Today had it all: snow, sun, South Tyrolean spring and a latte macchiato that made history. The old lady ran reliably, despite sub-zero temperatures and a midday slump. I can feel the passes I’ve ridden, the constant work on the bike – but it’s not tiredness, it’s a satisfied, fulfilled feeling. That’s exactly why you go on tours like this.