(A motorcycle trip full of curves, mountain highs – and the promise of a reunion)
When a journey begins with the feeling of making up for something, there’s usually more behind it. Back in April, I was already on the road: 3,600 km of Alpine cinema, but many passes were closed. Snow, frost, cold. Now, in summer, it was clear: I wanted them all. The classics. The ones still unconquerable in spring. So one July morning, I stood again in front of my old Lady, the trusty R1200GS – ready for a week of curves, highs, and caffeine.
What started as “catching up” quickly became a journey of its own – not documented daily this time, but shared in a retrospective. The plan was simple: Ride. Feel. Experience. And conquer the passes that were snowed in just months before.
🔧🍽️ The start – defective tail light, screwdriver luck and romantic gyros
Day one was hot. Lots of highway, little shade – and then: taillight dead. Brake light? Also gone. Repair shops? Either closed or fully booked. My mood? Rock bottom.
Eventually, I stood in front of a plain house in a suburban street – no sign, no mechanic smell, nothing hinting at a workshop. And who opened the door? His mother. That’s when I really lost hope. Seriously?
Soon after, the son appeared, a young guy who said, “I mostly just tinker on mopeds with my friends nowadays. Nothing major anymore.” Oof. My confidence sank even further. And when he couldn’t even remove the corroded bulb, the housing crumbled, and he started poking around with pliers, I was sure: That’s it. Breakdown truck, day one.
And did he even have a replacement bulb? No idea. But then, somehow – he made it work. Taillight glowed. Brake light too. And my mood? Immediately better. Respect, little moped wizard!
In the evening: Arrival in Erlabrunn. I wrapped up the day at a Greek restaurant – with delicious gyros and a quirky power outage in the dining room. Candlelight instead of LED – romantic, even if alone. But charming nonetheless.
🌧️🏃♂️ Chased by Rain – Better Early Than Soaked
Day two started with rain, but I waited it out – and left once it stopped. First stop: bakery. Latte 4/5, delicious Franzbrötchen, nut bar packed for later.
Through Würzburg with views of the Main River and the imposing fortress – then onto the so-called “Romantic Road.” And yes, it lived up to its name: curves, nature, barely any traffic. But a storm rolled in – I gave the Lady some spur and outran it. Reached Kaufbeuren just in time. As soon as the Lady was dry under a roof, the downpour began. Perfect timing.
Reward: the packed nut bar – and what can I say? The best I’ve ever had. So fluffy, so juicy – just delicious! Evening: pizza from the Italian around the corner – everything else was closed. Perfectly topped, crispy, tasty! A lovely end to the day.
⛰️🌨️ No Timmelsjoch? Then Reschen Instead
Day three started grey and wet. Timmelsjoch was the plan – but with that weather and the toll? Canceled. Instead, I aimed for the Reschen Pass – but first: Austria.
Right after the border, it started to rain. I looked for quick shelter – ideally with cell signal. A bus stop! Or so I thought. From behind, it looked empty – perfect for a quick roaming check. But as I reached the front: a crowd waiting for the bus. So I parked the Lady in front – at least dry, at least briefly.
Then he came. An older gentleman, clearly not just waiting for the bus, but for a chance to chat. He sized up the Lady like a connoisseur, nodded approvingly – and suddenly we were deep in conversation. “Beautiful bike. I used to ride too – Honda Bol d’Or, 900!”
He spoke of old rides, of journeys long past, of that feeling you never quite shake off. “A GS like this? She’ll take you anywhere. Just let her.“
A warm, honest biker chat that brightened the moment – despite drizzle and patchy signal.
Then: Hahntennjoch. Brilliant to ride, but the sudden altitude change triggered headaches that only eased after a break.
At the Reschen Pass, the familiar church tower in the lake greeted me – always a sight to behold. In Prad that evening: spaghetti with homemade sauce at a bistro. Simple, honest, good.
👑🛵️😕 King Stage – And Back Pain
The mattress in Prad? The worst of the tour. I woke up sore – but two cappuccinos (3.5/5) and a mediocre breakfast got me going again.
Then: Stelvio. Pro tip: ride it early! Almost no traffic, just a few cyclists and… a Porsche meet at the summit. Spectacular. Onward via Umbrail Pass – calm, stunning.
At Ofenpass, the rain returned. Lots of construction, heavy traffic – stressful. Same story at Flüela Pass. Time for a break: latte (3.5/5) and a nut roll (sadly dry). Better ones would come later.
In Davos, I changed clothes – only 2 to 4 °C, cutting right through the gear. In Thusis: 19 °C again. And more headaches from rapid elevation change. A pause helped.
Next: Oberalp Pass to Andermatt, where I grabbed a salami sandwich and nut croissant from my favorite café – saved for dinner. The cappuccino? Enjoyed on the spot. Destination: Airolo.
But first: Tremola. That legendary cobblestone serpentine road winding up the old Gotthard Pass. Cobblestones, historic flair, the feeling of a time warp – no other pass feels as full of history.
Built in the 19th century, it was once the main north-south Alpine route. Over 20 switchbacks, nearly 300 meters of climb – all on rough granite cobbles, almost unchanged today. Riding it is more than a journey – it’s living history.
🏔️🏆 Four-in-One: Furka, Grimsel, Susten, Klausen
New day, new pass marathon. Breakfast with a cappuccino (3/5), then off – quickly realizing I was back in the Italian-speaking part of Switzerland.
Furka Pass with the famous Hotel Belvédère (former postcard motif and Bond film location) was my highlight. Busy, yes – but what a view! Onward via Grimsel Pass, where I found a tiny chapel barely noticed by anyone. A quiet moment in the chaos.
Then: the spot where I had to turn around in April. Now fully open – and full of people. Solitude in spring, crowds in summer.
Susten Pass, Klausen Pass – both poetic. Distant waterfalls, lush green, deluxe Alpine panorama. Destination: Lake Walen. The hotel? Outstanding. Modern, stylish – and from the room: lake view.
But in the evening: a storm rolled in. Rain until morning. And sadly: no shelter for the Lady.
💧⚡ Water Damage and Electrical Mayhem
Lakefront breakfast, cappuccino 3.5/5 – but the radar offered no hope. Heavy rain. I rode anyway. Then: disaster.
Somewhere in the Lady’s electrics, water got in. The left indicator activated itself. And sometimes stayed on. At first annoying – then in France at the Grand Ballon, it got worse: the parking light stayed on, even without the key.
I wrenched, unplugged, disconnected the battery. Nothing helped. I cut short the Route des Crêtes and rode straight to Munster. The Lady got a garage. I hoped for overnight magic.
🧃 Farewell with Headlight
Next morning at the bakery: coffee (2/5), croissants okay. Hopes were high. But dashed. After just 7 km, it was clear: this wouldn’t work.
A rest area. 10 a.m. I called for help. Two thunderstorms and three rain showers later, I was soaked like a teabag – at 2 p.m., the tow truck arrived. He remarked dryly: “Friday afternoon? No one touches a bike now.” Also, he’d been told it was just a “blinker bulb issue.” Great. Four hours later, at 6 p.m., I was in a rental car. After a stop in Offenburg, I headed home.
The Lady stayed behind – alone, but not forgotten. And I know: she’ll return to me. She’ll be warmly welcomed, get her well-earned oil change, a proper repair, and everything she needs to hit the road again – ready for new adventures. The two of us – with a promise to return.
🏁 Conclusion: Retraced – But Missed Nothing
This journey wasn’t just catching up. It became its own chapter. Summer showed me what April couldn’t: sun on my skin, open passes, an Italy smelling of coffee, and a Switzerland that looked painted. And in between: me. And the Lady.
She carried me with a purring boxer heart and calm confidence – right up to the last pass. Only the electrics had different plans. Maybe it was protest. Or maybe just a wish: “Let’s turn back to the passes!” A stubborn indicator as one final salute to the Alps. Still: she delivered. Every mile was worth it.
☕ Coffee Stats:
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Gas station, day 1: 1/5
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Breakfast, Kaufbeuren: 3/5
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Bakery Würzburg: 4/5
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Flüela Pass: Latte 3.5/5
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Breakfast Prad: Cappuccino 3.5/5
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Andermatt: Cappuccino 4/5
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Airolo: Cappuccino 3/5
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Walensee: Cappuccino 3,5/5
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Munster: Coffee 2/5
🛫 Ridden Passes:
- Hahntennjoch
- Reschen Pass
- Stelvio Pass
- Umbrail Pass
- Ofen Pass
- Flüela Pass
- Oberalp Pass
- Tremola
- Gotthard Pass
- Furka Pass
- Grimsel Pass
- Susten Pass
- Klausen Pass
Every one of them: an experience. Together: an adventure.
📌 Curious about the “missed” spring ride?
Thanks again for riding along.
Even though there was no daily blog this time, every day was filled with stories. And that’s exactly why I love traveling. Until the next trip – stay curious and addicted to curves. 🐾
