The day starts with a cappuccino on the house – unfortunately not a worthy successor to yesterday’s latte: 2 out of 5 cups, but still caffeine.

And the old lady? She’s obviously had another animal visitor. For the second time in a row, I spot little cat paws on the bench. Was it the same velvet paw as yesterday or a new fan? It’s unlikely that it has followed me for hundreds of kilometers – but who knows? Cats are notoriously stubborn.

From Zell to Kitz – into summer mode

From Zell am See, we ride along well-maintained main roads through beautiful countryside. The riding is rather relaxed – we gradually leave many highlights behind us. But the scenery remains strong: green valleys, high mountains, blue skies.

Shortly before Kitzbühel, things finally get twistier, steeper and livelier again. In the town: lots of traffic, lots of tourists – and even more motorcycles. Sure, Sunday + sun = bike weather deluxe.

I take the opportunity to swap winter clothing for summer gloves – and realize again: motorcycling is community. You feel like you’re greeting people all the time.

Small roads, great idyll – the Brixental Valley.

Then it’s off to quieter climes: the Brixental valley welcomes me with narrow side roads, lush meadows and dandelions stretching to the horizon. Horses and cows stand relaxed in the fields, with snow-capped mountains rising into the sky behind them. A little dream in yellow and green.

In Penningberg then a pleasant 15 degrees – but suddenly: a sign. Private road. Passage forbidden. So we turn around. The donkeys in the stable acknowledge this with loud laughter. At least that’s how it seems to me…

Tiefenbach gorge, closure & small talk

I had just driven past the Tiefenbachklamm gorge when my satnav suddenly directed me onto a road where there was no other vehicle for miles around. Usually a good sign for beautiful side roads – but this time the route led straight into a road closure.

There I met a friendly vacationer who knew that the road wouldn’t be open again until May. We got into conversation, talked about motorcycles – he is allowed to ride a 125 – and about cars. Not a spectacular moment, but a nice one.

Achensee indulgence with chocolate core

I take a break at Lake Achensee. And how! Warm chocolate cake with a molten center, served with whipped cream and vanilla ice cream – 6 out of 5 points! The iced coffee on the other hand? More like an icy smoothie – delicious, but not much oomph. 3 out of 5 cups.

The view of the water is magnificent, the surroundings peaceful – a real pleasure highlight.

Cyclists’ parade & toll road without a view

The onward journey leads via a small toll road – 6 euros. And to be honest, it didn’t really convince me. Maybe I’m too spoiled from the last few days.

What stands out: an extremely large number of cyclists. It felt like half of Bavaria was on their bikes. Respect, given the altitude profile!

At Walchensee: Selfie drama

Arriving at Walchensee: 14 degrees, clear visibility, hardly any wind. I stop, enjoy the moment – and watch an elderly couple almost tying themselves in knots taking a selfie. I offer to take a picture. The man is interested in my GS – the woman asks me if I’m really traveling alone…

And when I say yes, she looks at me as if I had just said I sleep in cemeteries: “Alone? All alone?!” The tone of voice: a mixture of drama, pity and slight panic – as if traveling alone is contagious.

Yep, alone. And happy doing it.

People abroad treat me with curiosity and respect. In Germany, traveling alone is somehow suspicious. It’s a shame really – it’s pure freedom.

Royal? Well…

And then came the moment I had been looking forward to all day: my accommodation in Schlehdorf near Kochel am See. A highlight, I thought – after all, I had booked a suite. And yes, technically it is a suite. But the style? More like a baroque fairytale room: golden walls, chandeliers, heavy furniture. Not quite my cup of tea.

And then the bathroom: no shower, just a bath. I’m not really a tub person. But well – there’s plenty of space, the bed is comfortable, the view is beautiful and a bit of quirky charm somehow fits in with this day of travel.

Conclusion: A day like a grab bag – first leisurely, then closed, suddenly sweet, later tough again. Lots of countryside, lots of conversations, lots of cyclists. And finally a suite with more splendor than a shower. Not a classic, but one of those travel days that you won’t forget in a hurry.