The night in Zweibrücken was okay – even if the comforter would have deserved to be described as tight. But hey, it was enough to get the day off to a good start.

We set off for the Vosges in 7 degrees and light rain – the weather kept what the forecast had promised: rain, multiple and persistent.

We had breakfast at the petrol station – and it wasn’t bad at all: a delicious croissant and a solid 3 out of 5 cups of coffee. So at least the day got off to a good culinary start.

Crossing the border into France was no surprise – but the change in landscape, weather and driving behavior was noticeable. The rain remained, and there was also a strong wind that lasted for much of the day. Already unpleasant in the morning, then stormy on the Route des Crêtes.

The gusts really shook me up, especially at higher altitudes – with full suitcases, wet clothes and crosswinds, relaxed touring quickly turns into concentrated work. Even in the evening in Delle it was still whistling around the visor.

The traffic rules in France – well… it takes some getting used to. There are often no classic priority signs. Instead, you have to pay attention to roads that merge: Does the intersecting road have a stop line? A stop sign? If not, be careful. If you trust blindly here, you can quickly find yourself in the middle of the flow of improvised French traffic.

And speaking of traffic: tailgating drivers are apparently part of the road scene here too. It’s no fun, especially in wet conditions and on tight bends. Dear drivers: Please keep your distance – especially when it’s raining and visibility is poor. Tailgating brings nothing but danger.

Along the way, relics of the Maginot Line suddenly appeared – old bunkers, cannons, historic vehicles. Impressive, somehow surreal – in the middle of nature, silent and forgotten.

The ascent to the Route des Crêtes was scenically magnificent, but also challenging: 3 degrees, wind, fog, rain and then another reminder of the time of year on the first few meters of altitude: snow next to the road. Leaning hard was not a good idea on the wet, sometimes mossy roads in the forest – so we had to ride defensively.

A particularly impressive moment: already soaking wet, I stood under the roof overhang of a closed restaurant as a rain shower passed over the mountains – and the sun broke through the clouds at the same time. A spectacle of light at its very best.

In the evening, I arrive in Delle – a small village with a charming name. You could walk to Switzerland from here, but today I just walk to the heating. Because: My clothes are hanging clammy on and in front of a small heater, which is doing its best to fight against wet textiles. Currently: lump jam in the drying area.

And another thing: today was supposed to be a short day. The plan was around 289 km and approx. 6 hours of driving time – it turned out to be 317 km and over 9 hours on the road.

What was the reason? Sure: breaks in the rain, lots of photo spots, careful driving. Every time I think to myself: “Just stop for a quick picture.” – and bang, 10 minutes are gone again. The defensive driving style in the wet did the rest. And so a supposedly short day of touring turned into one of the longest so far.

Conclusion: 3 degrees, storm, rain, fog – and a moment of light over the mountains. France welcomes me harshly, but with character.

And tomorrow? Switzerland. Not an EU country, different plugs, different rules – maybe even different cows. Will they even let me in? How do I get internet? And how much does a coffee actually cost? Questions upon questions. Answers – in the next chapter.