The night was quiet – in the truest sense of the word. There was a babbling brook next to the house, the bed was comfortable (full-length comforter at last!), perhaps a little too warm, but definitely restful. The morning started at 6 °C, cloudy, but with the hope of sunshine. So up on the bike, cappuccino still in my blood (two at breakfast – solid 2/5 in terms of taste), and off we went towards the day’s destination: the Grossglockner High Alpine Road.

Before I could even get on the bike, a local four-legged friend apparently left his very own declaration of love: several small paw prints on the seat of my faithful lady – an animal greeting to start the day.

Apriach Höhenstraße – very private

Later, my route to the Grossglockner toll station first took me along the Apriach Höhenstraße – a real insider tip. Hardly any cars, a few occasional cyclists, but above all: peace and quiet.

Except for two four-legged road blockers who suddenly stood in the middle of the road. Two dogs – relaxed, but very determined. Did they want to collect a toll?

I put the old lady down – because a moment like this takes time. Helmet off, gloves off – and a few strokes in peace and quiet. Toll paid – officially and with relish. This made it even easier to enjoy the silence before continuing to the real barrier on the Grossglockner.

Großglockner? Not for you, my friend.

And then: Großglockner closed to motorcycles. Great.

I stopped at the toll station and spoke to the staff – hoping they would let me through after all. But: no chance. As of today, cars with summer tires are allowed up – motorcycles are not. Really? They’re allowed and I’m not? All right. So plan B.

Offroad light with a plot twist

The sat nav guided me along the so-called old Glockner road, also known as the Himmelsschleife. At first I thought: Wow, nice side road. Then: Oh. Gravel. Steep. Curvy.

Off-road light – thanks to the sat nav. And shortly afterwards: the navigation system wants to take me out again after the toll station. Have I discovered a loophole? An error in the matrix?

But then I came across a black pickup truck. The driver wanted to wave me past in a friendly manner, but I stopped, parked the old lady and we got talking. He was the head of the forestry workers and just wanted to see if his men were still up there working.

He said in the most beautiful Austrian tone of voice: “If you see the guy with the cable crane and he waves you through, then keep driving. But watch out!”

Then he paused for a moment, thought about it and said: “But… there’s another barrier with a camera. You can’t get through it. Nothing helps – you have to turn around.”

We talked a little more about my journey, where I came from and where I was going. A really nice person – another encounter that sticks with me.

So: turn around. But not disappointed – rather grateful. Because shortly afterwards…

The Gipper Chapel – a gift with a detour

I had already seen it from above – small, remote, quiet, in the middle of the landscape: the Gipperkapelle at 1620 meters. But there was no way to get there.

Only a little further on did I discover a narrow path that was steep, rocky and littered with loose gravel. It was a tough one. Full concentration was required both down to the chapel and later back up to the road.

But: it was worth it. Alone, quiet, completely still. I dismounted, entered and simply stood still.

A place that does not impose itself on you, but finds you when you are ready to see it.

Back to spring – for a short time

A short break later in Gmünd in Carinthia: 12 °C, no wind, dandelions everywhere in the meadows. The mountains flatter, no snow – and somehow everything felt warmer than it was. A little squirrel scampered across the road. Spring in its purest form. First a quick snack: currywurst. Better than yesterday, but there’s still room for improvement.

And then came the asphalt…

After the detour into off-road adventure, the sat nav led me onwards – and gave me a narrow, winding road that creatively cheated its way around potholes. The highway ran parallel as if it was laughing at me. But: no traffic, but plenty of scenery.

Obertauern: Cold. Empty. And no coffee.

It was wintry again in Obertauern: 4 °C, snow, closed hotels – and no sign of a hot coffee. But a cold shower. At least not from the inside.

I drove on through Sankt Johann im Pongau – a pleasant 15°C, normal spring again. I finally found an iced coffee at a petrol station (I had it in my head anyway) and a cheese stick with ham. Dinner done.

Arrival in Zell am See

The last 40 kilometers were just a formality. Arrived. At last.

I sorted my stuff and quickly went to the lake, because: If you’re already there, you have to go. I took a few nice shots – and then went back to my accommodation.

A coffee machine was waiting there, and although it was already late, I still had to have a latte macchiato. 2/5 cups – but that didn’t matter today.

Conclusion Planned: Grossglockner. Got: Gravel, lumberjacks, chapel magic, animal toll inspectors, dandelions and altitude meters galore. What was meant to be a classic mountain pass stage turned into one of those days that you don’t plan – but never forget. The old lady ran confidently. Sometimes I ran cursing slightly. But the bottom line: everything was done right.

.