What a day! Today had everything that makes a biker’s heart beat faster – snow, sun, cold, endless bends and a backdrop that is almost too beautiful to ride through. The Dolomites delivered – and how.

The morning began at the Hotel Drei Birken in Wolfsgruben on the Ritten – with a breakfast to die for: Rolls, bread, cakes, homemade juices, fresh waffles – and cappuccino at its best, to which I dedicated three cups (5/5). The boss is a motorcyclist herself, and her husband rides an R1200GS – just like me. After breakfast, he came over and we had a classic petrol talk about our bikes, the best routes, equipment and tours. It was a wonderful start to the day – informal, warm and full of passion for what we love.

Strengthened and motivated, I started the day – and was immediately surprised: as soon as I set off, the navigation system guided me through the vines into a small off-road adventure. A steep, gravel passage that looked more like a tractor than an R1200GS. But hey – the old lady can do it, and so can I. With a feel for the throttle and brakes and a slight increase in heart rate, we got through it. A little adrenaline kick in the morning – at least I was awake.

Then off we went – into the Dolomites! And they immediately made it clear what was in store for us today: mountain passes, snow and magnificent views.

Passes of the day:

• Gardena Pass (Passo Gardena) – 2,121 m
• Campolongo Pass – 1,875 m
• Pordoi Pass (Passo Pordoi) – 2,239 m
• Sella Pass (Passo Sella) – 2,218 m
• Fedaia Pass (Passo Fedaia) – 2,057 m
• Falzarego Pass (Passo di Falzarego) – 2,105 m
• Passo Tre Croci – 1,809 m
• Misurina Pass (Passo di Misurina) – 1,754 m

Were there really eight? Who knows. Maybe there were more. Not every pass has a sign – and sometimes you rush past it while you’re busy with fog, snowflakes or simply marveling.

The first highlight came at the Gardena Pass: a lovingly built snow hare sat at the side of the road and seemed to enjoy the view as much as I did – a whimsical, charming picture at an altitude of over 2,100 meters.

A little later, at the Pordoi Pass, I treated myself to a good portion of spaghetti al ragù – served on the terrace with a view of the snow-covered peaks. Pasta at the top of the pass – rustic, warm, filling.

The weather: dramatically varied. The day started with 0 degrees and snowfall, occasionally it got a little brighter, but the sun remained a rare guest. Snowflakes again and again, often dense fog, sometimes slippery roads – a real high mountain feeling. At the Fedaia Pass, the reservoir was still frozen over – a scene straight out of a painting. I could have kept stopping to take photos – but honestly, I would still be on the road now.

At the Misurina Pass, near the lake of the same name, the view opens up onto an impressive backdrop. Between wafts of mist and dramatic rock formations, the occasional peak flashed into view – maybe it was the Three Peaks, maybe not. In this bizarre mountain landscape, the familiar blurs with the unknown. A moment to marvel – not to identify.

After the last pass, I slowly left the Dolomites behind me. The route became gentler, the landscape more open. The crossing into Austria was almost incidental – an inconspicuous sign on a country road, but I immediately sensed that something had changed. The mountains became calmer, the colors softer, the valleys wider.

I finally rolled along the Pustertaler Höhenstraße towards my accommodation for the day. A pleasant route with beautiful views and little traffic, a worthy end to the day.

And then – right at the end – a classic tour finale: at the “Platzhirsch” snack stand, we had a good portion of currywurst with chips. The perfect reward after an intensive day in the saddle – uncomplicated, hearty, just right.

And it was also animalistic: the snack bar owner had his little dog Rocky with him – a friendly, fuzzy fellow with a great interest in my sausage and fries. Unfortunately, he wasn’t allowed to have any of it – his owner was keeping an eye on him – so he only got a few cuddles. A lovely moment at the end of an impressive day.

Conclusion: What a ride. Today had it all: snow, fog, mountain pass action, ice-cold air at over 2,000 m, temperatures between -2 °C and +7 °C – and 255 kilometers of the purest curves. The Dolomites showed their wild side – monumental, challenging, unforgettable. The old lady purred well, I persevered – and yes: I can feel it. In my arms, in my shoulders – but also in my heart. A day that stays with you.