Day three began with wet roads, cool air and the hope that things would be a little smoother after the first two days.

The night at Jolanda and Friedrich’s in Sautens was restful. It had rained heavily during the night, the roads were wet and the temperature had dropped to 14 degrees. So first coffee and a butter croissant.

The coffee was reasonably okay. The lid, however, was not. It only pretended to hold, and shortly afterwards a good portion of the contents landed on my white long-sleeved shirt.

Here we go again.

Two out of five coffee cups for taste. For accuracy, unfortunately zero.

Then we headed towards the Timmelsjoch. It rained from time to time on the way. Not dramatically, but enough to make it clear: The day would not show its best face right at the start. The route led through the Ötztal valley, past Sölden and up and up. At the toll booth it was only eight degrees.

At the top of the Timmelsjoch it got really cold. Very windy, rainy, cold and wet and somewhere between three and four degrees. I didn’t stay there for long, but I still enjoyed the moment. The area is simply impressive: rugged mountains, low-hanging clouds, a high mountain atmosphere and a view that works even in bad weather. The icy wind only meant that “enjoy in peace” became “enjoy quickly”.

The Timmelsjoch has always been more than just a road over the mountain. This crossing connected the Ötztal valley with the Passeiertal valley towards Merano in the early days. At the Top Mountain Crosspoint, several stations tell of historic trade routes, the construction of the road, snow, ice and glaciers. Today’s road was only opened in 1959 – something you almost forget when you ride up there on a motorcycle today.

The crown of thorns as a symbol of the historical division of Tyrol and the “AJUNA” crystal, which is supposed to stand for peace in the world, particularly stuck in my mind. Between the wind, rain, cold and the rugged mountain backdrop, it didn’t seem like dry information board history, but rather like a brief moment to pause for a moment. Only a very cold one.

Then I went down to the Italian side. I stopped at the Hochfirst. Regine and I have spent the night here before (somewhat involuntarily), so it’s not just any place along the route. Today it was my stopover to recharge my batteries before continuing towards the Jaufenpass.

The Jaufenpass wasn’t actually directly on my route. I therefore only cycled up it and then back down the same route. But when a pass like this is right under your nose, you don’t just leave it lying around. So up there I went. It was still chilly at the top at around eight degrees, but the route was worth it. Mountains, bends, the feeling of a mountain pass – that’s exactly what you set off for.

Back in the valley, it was almost absurd: just eight degrees at altitude, shortly afterwards it was 25 degrees again in the Italian countryside. So out of the warm layers and back into the summer clothes. The Alps obviously demand a complete closet selection in one day.

We continued through the Passeier Valley towards Meran and then through the Vinschgau Valley via Schlanders and Laas to Prad am Stilfserjoch. From Merano at the latest, the day felt different: away from the rough high mountains and into this warm South Tyrolean valley feeling. To the left and right were huge apple orchards, neatly lined up like green lines in the landscape. A moment ago wind, rain and cold on the Timmelsjoch, now warmth, orchards and southern life.

It was really warm, but I didn’t stop much for photos. At some point you just get into driving mode: keep going, arrive, sort it out later.

My destination for the day was Prad. I already knew the hotel from last year. Funnily enough, I was the only motorcyclist there then. This year was completely different: The parking lot was full of bikes. Apparently I wasn’t the only one who wanted to experience South Tyrol on two wheels.

Later, I got talking to another driver. I had seen him parking his bike from the balcony, and it struck me: He rides the same Honda as me – just a class smaller. He comes from Oberhavel, but started near Magdeburg, has a whole three weeks’ vacation and around 4500 kilometers ahead of him. The motorcycle is a dream come true for him, and this tour is his first really long trip. Tomorrow he wants to ride the Stelvio Pass, just like me. Maybe we’ll see each other again at breakfast or later for a bit of petrol talk.

Such encounters are simply part of it. You don’t know each other, but after two sentences about motorcycles, routes and plans, you’re somehow in the same movie.

Afterwards, I wanted to stroll through Prad for a while. Maybe an ice cream, maybe a coffee. In the end it was an ice cream parlor, and it was great. The iced coffee saved the day on the Pawtrail coffee scale: five out of five coffee cups. Full marks. After the morning coffee and shirt shower, this was much-needed redemption.

Nevertheless, the day doesn’t end on a completely relaxed note. Reception was told that it was going to rain heavily in the region tomorrow. The weather app doesn’t look friendly either: rain from six o’clock, possibly all day, around 20 liters per square meter.

I’ve been lucky so far. Yesterday I avoided the thunderstorms and stayed dry, today on the passes clouds, cold and a bit of rain, but all still within limits. Tomorrow could be different.

That’s it for today: The old lady has delivered again. And I have arrived.

Conclusion: Day three still felt a bit like familiar terrain. Timmelsjoch, Jaufenpass, South Tyrol – I already knew a lot of it, even if it had been more from the car. It was a completely different experience on a motorcycle. Tomorrow will be more exciting: first the Stelvio Pass awaits, then the unknown territories begin. New routes, new impressions – and a weather that obviously hasn’t yet decided whether it wants to travel with me or disturb me.